Just when you thought you’d figured it out. When you finally understood the 4C’s. When you thought you were done trying to understand the rulebook of what makes a diamond valuable… the coloured diamonds come along to shake up the playing field and add a whole new list of criteria to consider.

Now, we know that choosing the perfect stone can often be completely overwhelming, so Bee’s Diamonds has come up with a simple guide to ensure you are getting the most for your money and walk away with a breath-taking yellow diamond.

Colour is key – always!
Whilst it may sound like we’re stating the obvious, the yellow diamond must of course, be yellow! The colour is and always will be the most important factor when choosing a coloured stone and should be on the top of your list of criteria. Otherwise you could be left with a dull, dark diamond with none of the sunshine yellow that is so sought after.

XYZ or fancy yellow – What’s the difference?

 

Where some confusion lies, is in the grading criteria of the colour as it is so different to the colourless diamond grading scale we are so used to. Whilst white diamonds aim to be colourless on a grading scale from D – Z (Colourless to light yellow), fancy yellow diamonds are graded on an entirely different basis. A yellow diamond can fall under any of the following colour grades:
-    Fancy Light
-    Fancy
-    Fancy Dark
-    Fancy Deep
-    Fancy Intense
-    Fancy Vivid

For a diamond to be considered ‘fancy’ and eligible to be called a yellow diamond, they must fall outside the D-Z range and achieve at least a fancy light rating. Varying levels of naturally occurring nitrogen will influence the amount of yellow present in the diamond however, the general rule is, the more colour the better. Yellow diamonds with a fancy vivid colour grade will always be considered the most valuable however, this is greatly reflected in the price as well.

I don’t need anything too fancy!
The term ‘fancy’ can often be quite misleading as fancy shapes and fancy colours are not related in the slightest. It is also commonly confused for its common English term as describing something elaborate. In actual fact, fancy shapes are any shape other than round; fancy colours are any colour outside of the D-Z colourless grading scale. For example, a light-yellow diamond with a colour grade of X-Z will not be considered fancy light because it still falls within the colourless grading scale.

Tones and overtones
The tone (degree of darkness) of the diamond is also very important as darker stones are often considered less desirable than their lighter counterparts. For example, fancy dark diamonds are one of the least desirable stones within the fancy yellow grading even though it is closer to fancy vivid on the grading scale. I wouldn’t be too concerned though, as many jewellers will not include fancy dark stones in the range and they are generally not available on the market.
What you do need to be careful with is the overtones of the diamond also known as hue modifiers. These are the slight colour variations that can be present with any coloured diamond. For yellow diamonds specifically, this is most commonly orange or green. Whilst this will not indicate that the colour is any less pure, it will affect the visual appearance of the diamond. The rest is up to personal preference.

Round Diamonds don’t belong here
Unlike colourless diamonds, it is particularly rare to find a round yellow diamond and if you hadn’t already noticed a pattern here, this is of course because of the intensity of the colour. Everything comes down to colour!
Round brilliant cuts are always popular with colourless diamonds as it increases the reflective shine and scintillation however, when the goal is to have a strong colour grade, this simply won’t do. Fancy colours need fancy shapes with the most popular choice being cushion, oval or pear. These cuts uniquely increase the intensity of the faceup colour of the diamond. There have been many instances in which diamonds have been recut from round to fancy shapes for exactly this reason. The image below shows a 6+ carat round brilliant diamond with a colour grade between W-X. Once recut (right) to a radiant shape its colour grade noticeably increased to fancy yellow.

The Perfect Podium

For diamonds, the setting of the ring is its podium. A setting should work harmoniously with the stone to show off its exemplary characteristics. However, as every diamond is different these settings need to be adapted to show the diamond in its best light.
One of the main aspects of the setting you should look out for is whether it has a yellow gold bezel setting. This is a trick used by jewellers to intensify the colour of the yellow diamond by encasing the stone in yellow gold. It is important to keep this in mind when you are buying a yellow diamond already in a setting as the colour can be greatly enhanced.

If you would like to purchase a loose stone, this could also affect your decision making as you can always purchase a lighter yellow diamond at a reduced cost and enhance the colour further through its setting. Alternatively, the yellow diamond could be set on white gold to give the appearance of a lighter stone.

Stone treatments and lab grown yellow diamonds – Can you really tell the difference?

The simple answer is yes, the GIA and any other reputable grading organisation can identify any unnatural or treated diamonds and this will always be indicated on the diamonds grading reports. This will also be reflected in a greatly reduced price.
Trying to understand these processes is where things can get technical! The main processes include high pressure, high temperature (HPHT), annealing, irradiation and coating. All aim to improve the colour of the stone. Trying to explain each process will get very technical and not necessarily prove useful when choosing between stones. All you really need to know is that it will greatly reduce the value of the diamond and this is reflected in the price. Some processes can also affect the durability of the stone. For example, when a diamond is coated to change the colour, it can be easily scratched or damaged. In this case it is extremely important to tell your jeweller before any re-polishing or repairs are made.
If you are ever in doubt, simply check the report accompanying the diamond where all modifications to the stone are listed. Lab-grown diamonds will have a completely different style of report to avoid confusion between natural and un-natural stones.

But what about Clarity?
If you know anything about the four C’s and colourless diamonds, you’ll know that clarity is a very important factor effecting the value. This is because naturally occurring inclusions can impact whether the stone is eye-clean and change the way light reflects off the stone. This is not the case with fancy yellow diamonds. In fact, clarity is often one of the least influential factors when it comes to purchasing the diamond. Even with multiple inclusions, connoisseurs will see the value of a stone that displays an attractive face up colour.
Where inclusions become an issue, is when they either dramatically affect the visual appearance of the diamond without 10x magnification or if they affect the stability of the diamond itself. For example, cracks and chips can greatly reduce the strength of the diamond making any purchase ill-advised.

Our Recommendations  
Now we have given you all this information, you may be sitting there wondering what to do with it all. At the end of the day, you should pick your diamond based on your personal preferences and budget. You’ll need to determine where you are willing to compromise and base your decision making on that. For example, will you prioritise carat size or colour? Do you like the appearance of a lighter stone? If you are in any doubt, seek the advice of a professional. Any reputable jeweller will be able to guide you through the process and help to determine the best yellow diamond for you.
As we break away from tradition and explore more unconventional stones, colours and shapes, the yellow diamond has paved the way for modern brides, bold designs and a unique way to express personality through jewellery without breaking the bank. We can’t help but rely on the vibrancy of the yellow diamonds sunshine hue to brighten our day and with this full proof guide you can’t go wrong.

Looking for stunning yellow diamonds at wholesale prices? Book a private consultation to receive the expert advice of the Bee’s Diamonds team. Welcoming clients from all over the world, their extensive knowledge and experience in the diamond industry allows you to make smarter decisions.

+852 2180 7810
info@beesdiamonds.com
Written by: Alexandra Davidson